THE GOOD, THE BAD & THE UGLY: THE SNEAK ATTACK

by Faith Carman-Rogers

It always seems like when I see & admire someone's sneakers or shoes & ask where they purchased them- invariably, they'll say London or Japan. Since a far-flung vacation is not in my budget & my taste tends to "run"(excuse the pun) on the off-beat side...where is one to go in NYC? We, our staff, live in one of the greatest cities in the world. The options seem limitless. & yet how often do we see the same tired-ass sneakers in every window & on every foot. We all want to be seen as unique individuals.(well at least some of us). The internet can send a knocked-off trainer at lightning speed around the globe. No offense- but I can't even push myself to go into a Skechers store. I find it all very homogenized. The brand is as ubiquitous as Starbucks is for coffee. Design-wise, I see nothing original in their line. The whole chunky sneaker look has oversaturated the market. Skechers bore me with their mind-boggling amount of bland white & accent color combinations. Too much white in a sneaker just brings me back to the lackluster 1980's sneakers of my youth.- Ah Youth!

I must admit, dear readers, that I hardly wore sneakers back in school. Back in the day, we did not have the choices that are readily available to the consumer of today. The early 80's weren't a great time for sneakers. [Witness the disappointing Jamel Shabazz book "Back In The Days". I was looking forward to its publication when I first heard about it. Upon perusal, I felt there were very few fashion-inspiring pictures to be found. The pictured scenesters looked like typical youth of that time. "TV" set (my nickname) or Gazelle glasses get to be tiresome after a while. At least we can witness the classic Puma "Clydes" & Shell-top Adidas in action] There was a lot of white & I hate white footwear! So impractical in our concrete jungle! Fashion colors weren't yet explored as they are today. Options?...Of course, there were Vans with their checkerboard sportin' Jeff Spicoli in Fast Times at Ridgemont High. But Vans were not for me. I was not an "Ocean Pacific/OP" girl. Another option was the Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars hi tops & lo-tops. I had 1 or 2 pairs during those years, but...alas, they were not a comfortable supportive option for a flat-footed girl...Coincidentally, the NY Post had a whole page article devoted to the recent visibility of this brand on Nov. 17, 2002. Titled "Chicks in Chucks"...It seems they are a low-priced "low fashion" look for off-duty models & some fashion folk. The mix of designer pieces with thrifty pieces continues to be the best way to distinguish oneself from the pack.

How else can you be the only kid on the block with one-of-a-kind sneakers? This month, I'll unearth some great trainer resources. These days when it comes to sportin' the rarest, coolest pair, the names of the game are "exclusivity", "limited editions" & "limited run"(excuse the pun). This is especially true to the shoe collectors. These sneaker fiends or fetishists, if you will, support the waiting lists for havens such as A-Life. "The sneaker-collector type varies from stockbrokers to drug dealers," says A-Life manager Kunle Martins (in a NY Post article dated Oct. 20, 2002). For some, they develop a relationship with sneaker store owners or buyers. Calls & contact are made so that you will get that message or tip about that elusive exclusive. Some people are treating their sneaker collections as truly that- a collection. They are the owner & curator of "art" pieces that are desirable to acquire- just as Levi's from the early 1900's with specific colors, types of topstitching & special rivets showing the markings of a true find- a treasure- from the past. Recently, I saw an MTV "Cribs" episode with the fighter, Roy Jones Jr.(i think?)-- who had a beautiful dark wood walk-in closet (a wet dream for NYC compulsive shoppers) with his Michael Jordan hi-tops housed in a glass china closet. Each sneaker had silver pendants of a leaping MJ figure dangling from the side. Roy said they were never to be worn, only for show.

I guess this is a timely coincidence that my sneaker article got pushed to January. Of course, this month is a notorious time for many resolutions. One popular one?- Joining a gym. Keep in mind,though, that some of the places I'm mentioning are not necessarily selling the types of trainers we would work out in & sweat up. Some styles are for just that...stylin'...for show. I speak from experience- like a potato chip- you can't have just one...

MVP/ Most Valuable Players

*PROHIBIT- 269 Elizabeth Street...The one year old shop, Prohibit, was one of my favorites that I discovered during my research for this article. Besides having cute clothing & accessories, they carry a collection of sneakers in color combinations that I had not seen ANYWHERE. 90% of their trainers are from Japan. I also saw some brands that I had not seen elsewhere. For example, they stock Clai & the
California-based Creative Recreation. They also carry some next season samples of Lacoste Footwear from Hong Kong- only in men's sample size 8.5. In addition, an artist, Methamphibian, is the "sole provider"(excuse the pun) who works exclusively through Prohibit customizing Nikes. As their signage states: "He is determined to bring the most original highest quality custom Nikes to the collector community..." The salesperson shared that people call in & check regularly to see when the next batch of one-of-a-kinds are arriving. Methamphibian handpaints each pair with a secret blend designed specifically for this application. Flexible, waterproof & does not crack, peel or fade. Prices- for these particular sneakers- range from $150 into the $200's.

*NORT 235- 235 Eldridge...This shop is owned by Stash, a former graffiti artist. They show a lot of sought-after vintage editions & hard-to-find new releases. Sometimes color combos only found in Japan are here. Their specialty is limited edition Nikes. Skaters & shoe collectors continually stop by. Prices range from $75- $300 depending on their exclusivity.

*TRAINING CAMP- 25 West 45th Street (also, smaller branch at 1079-6th Avenue & 41st Street)...When I visited, there was a good variety of colors & styles (& lots on sale). Voted best sneaker store by New York Magazine in April 2000. Rappers frequent here. The owner is someone they keep in touch with to hook them up with the latest & greatest. Most recently seen: Sean "Puffy" Combs, "Ghostface Killah", a furtive Rod Stewart & the Wu-Tang Clan at the shop's Staten Island outpost.

*A-LIFE RIVINGTON CLUB- 158 Rivington(between Clinton & Suffolk)...Make sure you bring the address. No signs, windows, or number. Only a smoked glass door. This is like an exclusive wood-laden gentlemen's club. One can view a small collection from all over the world. Asics has teamed up with the store to create 50 pairs of gold sneakers in a collector's cherry box. Look for A-Life's new collaboration with Adidas to hit stores next Fall.

*99X- 84 East 10th Street...Reliable source of sought-after brands such as Ben Sherman & Fred Perry. One of the city's best selection of Fred Perry gear. Carries limited edition Vans which are exclusive to the store.

Most Improved Players

*SNEAKER Q- 270 Broadway(near Havemayer Street), Williamsburg (also, a second store: 40-15 National Street Corona, Queens)...Under the El is the Q. If you are a sample size (men's 9 or women's 7), then, lucky you! Nike drops their prototypes here, including shoes that are three seasons ahead of most stores. Much like a bakery, one can press their nose against the glass cases housing the Jordans & Nikes. Besides sample sizes, there is the regular-sized selection for the: ladies, the fellas & many insanely-cute pairs for the tykes.

*YELLOW RAT BASTARD- 478 Broadway...Seek & ye shall find. Three storefronts lined up together. In the 3rd shop to the right, walk all the way to the back to find an alcove of well-selected sneakers.

*CAMPER- 125 Prince Street...This 25 year old Spanish line of footwear has its only US shop right here in NY's own Soho. Although not true sneakers, I would say they have a unique sampling of the comfy shoe/sneaker hybrids. You may be apprehensive about the whoopie-cushion seating. Never fear, they're silent & not deadly.

*TRANSIT- 665 Broadway...(transitnyc.com)...This sneaker shop has its back shoe area fashioned into an amusing retro subway car. One can enter through the turnstile if one chooses to. Suddenly I'm wishing a white-suited Tony Manero would be slouched in the corner seat with a small Band-Aid under his eye. Or a young muscular James Remar & his fellow-"Warriors" would pass through. Good variety along with the atmosphere. Frequent sales occur. There were a few limited edition Adidas for $200 which were certainly not being pushed by the salespeople. I questioned the high cost to 2 different salepeople who had no idea why they cost so much. I'm sure that people who collect or "in the know" will purchase them; otherwise markdowns for all of us "in the know"!

*CO-PILOT- 654 Broadway

*RUGGED SOLE- 7 West 8th Street...(also, 298 Utica Avenue, Brooklyn)

New "Keds" on the Block

*ADIDAS- 136 Wooster...(adidas.com/originals) FYI: the website features exclusives.

*STUSSY- 140 Wooster...(stussy.com)

*PUMA-521 Broadway...(puma.com)

Out of these three new "kids", I'm partial to the garage door-styled facade, Adidas. On the particular day I visited, they were playing my much-beloved A Tribe Called Quest & many cute salesguys were ready, willing & able to accommodate my footwear needs.

Blow Off the Dust & Let's Have a Look-See

*MAGIC SHOES- 178 Bleecker Street...Open since 1979. It looks like it's selling some of the same styles since first opening. (take note: 80's-styled chicas...there are many somewhat dusty disco & 80's-style pumps) They carry rarities that are discontinued colors & styles of Chuck Taylors, Airwalks & some Vans. Sizes are limited, but many items are on sale.

*TRASH & VAUDEVILLE- 4 St. Mark's Place...Mixed in with the creepers, goth gastric disasters & f-me pumps are some interesting odds & ends on the sneaker front.

*LADY FANCY KNICKERS- 222 Lafayette...Seek & ye shall find. Be patient at this hodgepodge of old style "dead stock"(never been worn). Look to the floor & you shall see abandonned & forgotten footwear waiting to be taken for a stroll to a new home-your stanky feet ;)

Recycled/ Retro-active

*BARNEY'S NEW YORK- Madison & 60th Street...Sneaker snobs can take delight in a new innovative Puma line called "Top Winner Thrift". Amazingly, the sneakers are cut directly from vintage clothing(hats, ties, dresses, etc.). Photos of the original secondhand items are included with purchase- which seems like a recycling history or "birth certificate" for your trainers. Along with a certificate of authenticity, one receives an exclusive invite to join the Puma-created Thrift Web Community Web site where one can obsess with like-minded sneaker fiends about their unique purchase ad nauseum. This line is available exclusively at Barney's New York. One obstacle? There are only 510 pairs in the whole world. Make a run for it, kids! Good luck!

*EAST VILLAGE SHOE REPAIR- 1 St. Marks Place...Should be called Hole in the Wall. They will customize your sneakers with platforms of any scale & who knows what else?! They do have some styles in this cramped quarters that are no longer made.

Choice Cuts

*ALIFE- 178 Orchard...Limited, but interesting trainers & more! Art installations add interest to the stark decor.

*BARNEY'S NY CO-OP(various branches)...Some less visible brands can be found here, such as: Eley Kishimoto's wild printed kicks & No Name's multi-color patchworked styles.(There are also some No Names at Stackhouse on 282 Lafayette).

*ATRIUM- 644 Broadway...(atriumnyc.com)...Along with its compact sneaker offerings, one must check out their tee shirts (which I neglected to mention in my summer column listing)

Mixed Bag

*URBAN OUTFITTERS(various branches)...(urbn.com) Colorful brands, such as NM70, Diesel, Royal Elastics & more.

*DIESEL(various branches)...(diesel.com)

*DAFFY'S(various branches)...You'd be surprised what can be found sometimes. Brands such as Fubu, Rocket Dog, Wanted, NM70 have been spotted at half the usual retail prices. Sometimes off-beat trainers left unsold can be had for less than $8!!

Here are some additional websites to find sneakies on:

*NIKE-PRESTO.COM
*NIKERUNNING.COM(customize by clicking on "create your own shoe" icon)
*VANS.COM
*DELIAS.COM
*CR8TIVERECREATION.COM
*ROYALELASTICS.COM
*CUSTOMATIX.COM(website devoted entirely to custom-designed sneakers...lets you pick patterns, colors, logos & shoe style)
*ACUPUNCTUREFOOTWEAR.COM
*SAUCONY.COM
*GRAVISFOOTWEAR.COM
*MERRELL.COM(simple, but modern looking outdoor-ish footwear)

If you want more facts in your head about what you put on your feet, here's a small sampling of some books dealing with the past, present & future of athletic footwear:
*"Sole Provider: Thirty Years of Nike Basketball" by Robert "Scoop"
Jackson
*"The Sneaker Book: Anatomy of an Industry & an Icon" by Tom Vanderbilt
*"Back in the Days" by Jamel Shabazz
***ALL SHOULD BE AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM***

R.I.P.(i.e. Retail Is Perishing)-- The next retail casualty is:
Canal Jean. Wistfully, I wonder when the last black & white checkered shopping bag will be spotted on the street toting someone's essentials. These plastic bags will go the way of the Woolworth's bags in NYC. As stated two months ago, I can remember the original Canal Jean flagship on Canal Street in the mid-80's. Well that flagship store is long gone & its only B'way offshoot will follow closing on Jan.19, 2003 (soon to be replaced by a downtown branch of Bloomie's)...& so goes "Soho's transformation into Madison Avenue South"(as coined by Gersh Kunstman in his recent Metro Gnome column for the NY Post)

FOR REAL...REST IN PEACE: Jam Master Jay (ne Jason Mizell) 1965 - 2002...How could I write an article about sneakers & not mention the passing of one-third of the athletic-geared trio Run-DMC...who in their day did as much for Adidas & Kangol as Brooke Shields did for Calvin Klein Jeans.

Have a happy & safe new year (don't hurt anyone scrambling for some new sneakies!)

faith

P.S. Here is a possible old school acronym for ADIDAS--All Day I Dream About Sex...